A hidden gem in Dubai

The late Sheikh Rashid's Majlis

Built in 1955 in what was then a sparsely populated neighborhood of Dubai dotted with date palm groves and fishermen shacks, “Majlis Ghorfat Umm Al Sheif” is a hidden gem of times gone by that is now sitting in modern Dubai's posh residential area dubbed Jumeirah III.

I have been passing in front of it at least once a day for the past four years. There’s a big road sign indicating the Majlis on the corner of Jumeirah Beach Road right next to Reem al Bawadi restaurant and Ibn Sina pharmacy. I often saw busloads of tourists entering or exiting “Majlis Ghorfat Umm Al Sheif.” This week, I finally decided to stop and find out what the venue was all about.

Set in a 3,300 square meter fenced and gated lot, “Majlis Ghorfat Umm Al Sheif” is one of the prime historical sites in Dubai because it was the summer residence of the late Sheikh Rashid Bin Saeed Al Maktoum (1912-1990). When the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahayan called for the formation of the federation, Sheikh Rashid, who became ruler of Dubai in 1958, was the first to join on December 2, 1971. He was thus effectively co-founder of the United Arab Emirates.

The Majlis (which means a place to seat special gatherings), is named after the Umm Al Sheif pearl fishing bank, home to the most valuable natural pearls. This summer residence, which caught the sea breeze in the days preceding desert coolers and AC units, eventually became Sheikh Rashid's retreat and that of his family and friends at a very important juncture in Dubai’s history. He regularly held meetings there to discuss political and social issues.

The main Majlis in the two-storied structure is 14.9m long and 7.7m wide. The ground floor is an open veranda called leewan or rewaaq (Arabic for portico or porch) with a few short columns. A small store is located at the northern side near the staircase to the upper floor, and still has relics of the past, including pots, jute sacks of provisions, cooking utensils and coffee containers (to serve Sheikh Rashid’s guests). Then, there's another spacious terrace and the Majlis itself, furnished in the age-old fashion with its walls dotted here and there with a rifle, a munitions belt, an old transistor radio, a clock...

The Majlis was built according to the time-honored style, including air inlets in the walls, using gypsum and coral rocks as well as Kandal timber imported from East Africa and date palm fronds. The window frames and doors are in solid teak wood. The windows do carry the breeze from the seashore nearby. When I was there, walking around and taking pictures at noon on Wednesday, (September 1), it was about 44 degrees centigrade outdoors. But as soon as I entered the main Majlis, it immediately felt cooler with a current of relatively fresh air.

The second Majlis sits outside the main structure and is open and airy and built from date palm fronds. It has now been transformed into a seating corner where visitors can have cold refreshments.

Take a walk around the Majlis with me...

The Majlis was built around a Falaj (crevice) irrigation system that is still operational today. This traditional Omani irrigation system, also used in neighboring countries, consists of tapping underground water that is then led by man-made subterranean channels to villages where it is used for irrigation and domestic purposes. The water flow of Aflaj (crevices) is relatively constant and varies according to the amount of annual rainfall and drought periods. In this case, the water comes from a natural well and is carried all around the grounds to a pond and then out again. The Aflaj are used to water the grounds, which are dotted with palms, a pomegranate tree, lemon trees, frangipani (fitneh) and the likes.

Although it was very hot when I was wandering around, the melodious sound of the water flowing in the canals proved both soothing and cooling.

It doesn't take long to go around Sheikh Rashid's Majlis and the entrance fee is only 1 dirham (or $0.27). It is well worth it, I thought.

Ramadan Kareem

An explanation of the Blessed Month of Ramadan by Yusuf Islam (YouTube video)


I wish you all a blissful and blessed fasting month of Ramadan.

May Allah reward your self-restraint and answer your supplications.

Ramadan Mubarak!

A surprise... from Naeema

Chant Hindu -- Beatrice Harrison Nightingales In Her Garden, Oxted (spannerworks1 YouTube)

Yes, Angels exist and dreams do come true! And a dream came true on Wednesday, thanks to my friend Naeema (@Naeema).

In "Blackbird" on August 3, I wrote that "I once heard the most magical recording of British cellist Jaqueline du Pre playing to the accompaniment of Nightingales in her back garden..." and how I have looked for this recording for years.

Naeema tweeted that she had a "surprise" for me. When I checked the comments on "Blackbird," she had sent me a link to British cellist Beatrice Harrison (1892-1965) playing the cello in her garden with Nightingales! Maybe that's what I heard so long ago... who knows and who cares! I just couldn't believe my ears and wanted to share this amazing recording.

Beatrice Harrison (Photo courtesy of bbc.co.uk)

 According to Wikipedia, "Beatrice Harrison's performances became well known through broadcast in the early days of BBC sound radio. She made some 'live' recordings in which she sat and played her cello in the garden of her house at Oxted, and the nightingales which frequented the place sang as she was playing. The tunes thus recorded included Songs My Mother Taught Me (Dvorak), Chant Hindu (Rimsky-Korsakov) and the Londonderry Air (the tune of Danny Boy). Records were also issued of the nightingales singing alone and of the dawn chorus in the same garden. These recordings were extremely popular..."

Thank you Naeema for this wonderful "surprise," and thank you for my "blogwarming" present -- the header to Mich Cafe. It is by this amazing Lebanese visual artist. And I would encourage you to see more of Naeema's work at http://naeemazarif.com/.

I hope you enjoy the recording as much as I am.

I met an Angel!

An Angel: Richard fitting the battery

I met an Angel today.

I had a bit of drama, which is no bad thing, except it was played out in 46 degrees heat!! My little car, that you met last week, let me down at high noon! The battery died.

It was parked right in front of Choitrams, Safa Park, when it refused to start. I don't know much about cars and really didn't know what to do. I had to get out as it was like a burning oven inside. Practically in tears and with a trunk full of shopping I had done for some friends, I looked around for help but there weren't many people or cars at that hour.

And then, a white 4x4 drove up on the sand right next to me. I started waving and walked up to the gentleman and asked if he could try starting the car, in case I was doing something wrong. He said, "No problem." He tried, but it didn't work. So he said he would jump-start it. He got his car closer, plugged the cables, but the little Daihatsu was being cheeky. So he said he would drive me to get a battery.

We went to one petrol station on Beach Road that didn't have the right model and then to a second one in Al Qoz. We then came back and my Angel fitted the battery. By then, we were both dripping in sweat, but he didn't seem to mind. His smile never left his lips. He said his wife had a similar incident a couple of weeks ago.

He was very easy going and dismissive about being put through all this trouble. He didn't seem to mind at all. I couldn't believe my luck and was embarrassed by so much kindness. We did introduce ourselves. I know his name is Richard. He is South African and works with horses at Nad al Shiba. If you know him, please tell him again how grateful I am.

The "Rolls," now pleased with its new battery, started immediately and was ready to go.

And as we said our goodbyes, I couldn't resist a hub. God Bless you Richard for your time and kindness.

Yes, I believe in Angels. They are all around us. And I met one today.

Shedding feathers

My "Rolls Royce"

I love my car! I hate driving , but my "Rolls" is one of the very few possessions I now value, together with an old-fashioned Nokia (I'm sure it doesn't even have a number), my digital camera and my Dell Inspirion mini. And, apart from the car (!!), they all fit into my bag and I'm ready to go.

Traveling a lot, first with my family and then on my own, I realized how much stuff we had accumulated and how much there was to give away each time the packers were called in. And with each move you shed some feathers and grow some new ones. We love hanging on to souvenirs, mementos, clothes, shoes, things... that we hang, display, don't wear anymore and generally exhibit, hide and stuff here and there around our homes.

A few years ago, on embarking on yet another move from one flat to another -- and planning to relocate to Dubai -- I decided not to unpack. I would camp! And when you shed feathers, there are some you realize you should have kept... but Oxfam was certainly pleased. I ran back to the charity shop once searching for my favorite leather jeans that I thought would be too hot for Dubai. No chance! They were gone!

There is, of course, some stuff I couldn't part with -- like my dad's collection of pipes; my mother's Limoges and Opaline vases, boxes and plates; a camphor chest which takes you back in time with its sweet smell whenever opened, containing a gold-threaded black abaya, about 10 meters long, that a Saudi princess once gave my mum; my Barbie dolls, in their original pink case with all the little shoes, bags, accessories and outfits; the picture albums... enough for a Mich Antiques Shop, sometime!

With all that in storage, or rather in a friend's garden at the moment, it's quite liberating to have just the essentials. You realize how little you actually need, and that apart from family and friends, their welfare and good health, not much is really important. It's lucky if they are close, but once their photos are spread around, even a tent becomes home.

And so, my car takes me from A to B -- and when I feel very courageous to C. With my mobile I can always hear the voice of loved ones, no matter how far. My digital camera lets me record events and share them. And my Dell, well... something that small has opened up the world to me, changed my life in so many ways and here I am talking to you!!

So until I get to that place where I can at last hang my hat and take my flip flops off, these feathers are fine and camping is fun too.