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Showing posts with label Hamra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hamra. Show all posts

Saturday, March 28, 2015

Raeda Taha play triggers fond memories

Raeda Taha performing with an image of her father serving
as a backdrop.
 CreditDiego Ibarra Sanchez for The New York Times
It is one of the perks of social media to be able to find friends you have lost contact with for years and learn of the things they are doing.

And so it was that I heard about Raeda Taha, who I have not seen or been in contact with for more than 25 years!

Raeda was performing in a play she wrote at the Babel Theater in Beirut’s Hamra district. The one-woman show, titled “Where can I find someone like you, Ali,” was directed by Lina Abyad and ran from the end of February to March 7.

I heard about it from my cousin Lillian and it is with very fond memories that I read the article about the show in The New York Times.  In the 1980s and early 1990s, when I used to cover the Palestine Cause in general and its leader Yasser Arafat in particular, I landed often in Tunis where the Palestinian leadership had moved. After a few visits and stays in a hotel, I became friends with Raeda and started staying with her.

With Raeda at the beach in Tunis in the last 80s
Her hospitality, kindness and generosity made all the difference to these trips that sometimes lasted for more than a month at a time. Raeda was able to stay with me in London too once and spent Christmas with my family in 1990 if I remember well.

But all that is history and the future is Raeda’s seemingly brilliant career in writing and performing. Bravo Raeda! I hope I can see the play for myself sometime soon.

The following is the article, published on March 22, in The New York Times:

* * *

By Ben Hubbard and Hwaida Saad

BEIRUT, Lebanon -- In a measured voice, the middle-aged woman in the blue dress recalled how a colleague had come to her hotel room during a work trip years before and tried to rape her, retreating only after she had screamed to alert the neighbors.

In tears, she hid in the bathroom to ponder her dilemma: Should she tell her boss? Would that make matters better or worse?

Complicating her decision was the fact that her boss had been a father figure to her since she was a child. He was also, as it turned out, the iconic and controversial father of the Palestinian nationalist movement, Yasser Arafat.

With that story began the sold-out closing performance last week of the autobiographical one-woman show “Where Can I Find Someone Like You, Ali,” written and performed by the Palestinian writer Raeda Taha and directed by Lina Abyad at the Babel Theater in Beirut.

Ms. Taha’s show has drawn large crowds and critical acclaim since it opened here last month because of its deeply personal and often ironic take on a life shaped by the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.

From the 1972 coverage of the hijacking
Ms. Taha’s pedigree gives her a rare tie to the Palestinian struggle: her father was a militant killed by Israeli commandos after hijacking an airplane in 1972. Mr. Arafat then virtually adopted her and her sisters, lavishing them with gifts as the daughters of a “martyr.” As an adult, she worked as Mr. Arafat’s press secretary.

And in an unlikely twist, one of the Israeli commandos who participated in the raid that killed her father was a young man named Benjamin Netanyahu, who won an election in Israel on Tuesday (March 17) that will likely give him a fourth term as prime minister.

Ms. Taha still hates him.

“Netanyahu is still my enemy,” she said before the show. “He participated in the killing of my father.”

Ms. Taha’s show, and its sympathetic portrayal of a hijacker considered a terrorist by much of the world, was in no way controversial in Lebanon, where highly destructive wars over the years have left most people hostile toward Israel and supportive of those who fight against it.

That feeling was clear in Ms. Taha’s play, but her focus was much more on the Palestinians themselves and on the frequent clash between the public celebration of those who die fighting Israel and the private suffering of those they leave behind.

Wearing a blue dress and a necklace bearing a black and white photo of her father, Ms. Taha, 50, took the stage before spectators ranging from gray-haired intellectuals who remembered her father to bearded university students born long after his death. Seated near the front was a group of Palestinians from the West Bank sporting black and white kaffiyehs on their shoulders.

Ms. Taha sat on a couch and addressed the audience in Arabic, switching accents and postures as she embodied different characters and recounted tales from her life.

Many were from the 1970s, making the play a time capsule from a different Middle East. Palestinian militants led by Mr. Arafat planned attacks on Israel from Beirut; Islamist movements like Hamas and Hezbollah did not yet exist; nor did the Palestinian Authority. Nor peace talks aimed at ending the conflict.

Dwelling in the background was the story of her father, Ali Taha, one of four militants who hijacked a Belgian airliner on its way to Israel in 1972, seeking to swap its passengers for Palestinian guerrillas imprisoned in Israel.

The plot failed. Israel secretly disabled the plane, preventing the hijackers from fleeing, and a team of Israeli commandos disguised as mechanics stormed the aircraft, capturing two hijackers and killing the others.

Ms. Taha’s father was among the dead, making him a “martyr” and giving his relatives a status they struggled to make sense of. Ms. Taha was 7 at the time, and the youngest of her three sisters was 8 months old.

Ms. Taha recalled the family home filling up with people she did not know, wailing and bearing photos of her father.

She said she saw her mother on the couch, devastated, but surrounded by other women who tried to make sure she acted appropriately.

“Red nail polish no!” she said they told her mother, prompting laughs from the audience. “You are now the wife of a martyr.”

She joked about men who flirted with her mother, mixing slogans like “Revolutions need blood!” with compliments about her eyes and hair, prompting more laughs.

Her mother was torn, she said, once saying that she wished her husband had been a “radish seller” who had stayed alive rather than a fighter who got killed.

Other stories talked about Ms. Taha and her sisters dealing with their father’s death.

At one point, they asked their school principal what “hero martyr” meant.

 “He is the one who dies as a sacrifice for the thing he loves most,” the principal said.

“Oh,” Ms. Taha replied. “My father loves Palestine more than he loves me.”

At that, the principal started crying and Ms. Taha’s sister quipped that he was jealous because “dad is the hero martyr and not him.”

Raeda on stage (Photo Mohammed Khayat)
Ms. Taha also poked fun at the attention she and her sisters received as the “daughters of a martyr.” They were paraded about at official occasions and traveled to countries that supported the Palestinians, causing ironic jealousy among their friends whose fathers were still alive.

In one story that drew hearty laughs, a friend of Ms. Taha’s could not conceal her glee when her own father was assassinated by Israeli intelligence.

“Now I can travel with you!” the girl said.

The last part of the show narrated the quest by Ms. Taha’s aunt Suheila to get the Israeli authorities to hand over Mr. Taha’s body so it could be buried.

After trying multiple avenues, the aunt confronts Henry A. Kissinger, then the secretary of state, who agrees to help.

That story could not be independently verified; Ms. Taha said after the show that it was “100 percent true.”

After the family buries Mr. Taha, the show closes with a video of Suheila, who still lives in Jerusalem, singing a song about her departed brother.

After the show, some in the audience spoke of what had and had not changed between Israel and the Palestinians in recent decades.

“The past was different in many ways, but the occupation is still the same,” said Hanadi Abu Bakr, 50, who was visiting Beirut from the West Bank city of Nablus.

She had wanted to visit Beirut since she was a child, she said, but tensions between Israel and Lebanon had always prevented her.

Chantal Hoyek, a Lebanese translator, said the play recalled a time when many Arabs believed that armed struggle against Israel would help the Palestinians return to their homeland. Ms. Hoyek, 28, still supported that struggle but did not think it would succeed.

“It’s not a revolution anymore,” she said. “It is a hopeless case.”

Monday, September 12, 2011

Hamra medley dazzles


I missed the first one, and was not about to miss it again! I was glad to be in Beirut just in time for this year’s Maraya 2011 Hamra Streets Festival. It started with preparations Tuesday, August 30, and went on for two days on Wednesday and Thursday coinciding with the Eid al-Fitr break celebrating the end of the Holy Month of Ramadan.

As I wrote many times before, Hamra is home. It is one of the main streets in Beirut and much the heart of the city. It’s where I have always lived when in Lebanon.

Hamra Street is about one-kilometer long. It runs, in one-way traffic, from the Banque Du Liban (or Central Bank) all the way down to Sadat Street. It is home to many private banks, major newspapers and ministries, cafés, restaurants, churches, mosques and street sellers. They all contribute to the dynamism of the area. Two of Lebanon’s major universities are to the left and right of Hamra Street – the American University of Beirut (AUB) and the Lebanese American University (LAU).

Hamra is closed to traffic during the festival
The bustling street is closed to traffic for three days during the festival when stalls are set up in the middle-of-the-road. Shops, cafés and restaurants bring their wares out on the pavements. Tables and chairs are laid out in the middle.

I couldn’t wait for the festival to start. It was held this summer under the theme of apples. I went out to witness what was happening from the first day. There was a carnival atmosphere in the air with eager sellers already in place and others waiting for the sheltered stalls to be built. There were apples all over and at most stands, to encourage and blend local agriculture with the other trades on display.

Setting up on August 30
The only hitch glitch came Tuesday night. While organizers were still getting everything ready, a sudden half-an-hour downpour sent them scurrying for cover. We thought that it would delay the preparations, but at 10 a.m. on Wednesday (August 31) the festival opened to clear, blue skies.

The Hamra Streets Festival celebrates Lebanese talent whether in handicrafts, farming, gardening, cooking, music, painting... The Maraya 2011 organizers wanted to mix urban and rural talent and they sure did. I was pleased to reconnect at the festival with most of the Souk el Tayeb farmers I wrote about last November. I also got to know many new and talented people. 

"Wled el Balad" relaxing at Cafe Younes before their performance
Congregating towards the stage
This year, there was only one stage for the live performances at the beginning of Hamra Street. That’s where everyone eventually congregated to hear their favorite acts and to discover new ones. Standouts included, among others:

-        The Red Herrings, a young five-member jazz band out of Kent in the UK
-        Wled el Balad, who I met earlier that morning at my favorite Café Younes
-        Hip-hop rapper twins Ashekman, who also had a stand selling T-shirts and their CD
-        Banana Cognac who play funk and blues, and
-        Epic, who I heard on the last night (September 1).

Last year’s Hamra Street Festival pulled some 200,000 people. I am sure the figure was exceeded this summer. For three days, street activities and stalls were open to the public from 10 a.m. to midnight.

Maraya 2011 organizers were Najwa Baroody, Fadi Ghazzaoui, Serge Mushati, Marilene Makhloof, Assil Ayache (music production), Zico (technical), Dina Habbal, Randa Chelala and Zeinab Chahine. They tried this year to focus on green areas and a green theme, winning over such sponsors as Beirut Municipality and AUB.

The Malak al Taouk bus
Friends of Maraya 2011 include AUB’s School of Agricultural and Food Sciences & Center for Civic Engagement & Community Service; Sabah Ramadan; Karim Bekdache; Harley-Davidson Owners (HOG) and the ISF Horses.

The Harley-Davidson Owners prepare for the parade
I've never seen so many Harleys in one place!
HOG opened the festival Tuesday afternoon in tandem with the Police Horses. I missed the parade because it was supposed to kick off at 5 p.m. But by 6 p.m. the Harleys were still taking their positions -- so I walked away thinking the opening was postponed. But I never saw so many Harley-Davidsons in one place and their vroom-vroom had the whole street gasping in expectation. Everyone wanted to watch men and women bikers, park their awesome machines side-by-side. There must have been well over 100.

The number of creators of crafts, ceramics, jewelry, handbags, hats, paintings, etc, all with a Lebanese twist was admirable. Everyone was in good spirits, hospitable, generous and eager to enjoy the festivities.

Wherever I stopped, stall owners were eager to share information about their creations and offer a little token. Considering the huge number of people strolling around the street, I was struck by everyone’s composure. There were several stands offering spirits, but no one was visibly “high” or upsetting the fun.


Bags by Dima Rachid
“Concepts by Dima,” the custom handbag outfit by 22-year-old Dima Rachid, is one example of local creativity. Dima was welcoming at her stand, explaining that she helps clients create their own collages for their handbags that can be dry-cleaned. 

I loved the Zinab Chahine stall for original accessories -- especially her brooches made of bottle caps with pictures of Umm Kulthoum and Arabic words and expressions.

There were Fitflop sandals that give you a workout while walking and the two women at the stand were pleasant and helpful. Unfortunately, the guy staffing the stall of Havaianas, the only thing I wanted to buy, must have been tired when I passed by and not cordial – so he lost my custom.

Karen Mahseredjian's original designs
One of my favorite stands was Designs by Kay selling colorful and original handbags by Karen Mahseredjian. The laptop bag with a car license plate was a hot seller. So were the phosphorescent pinks and yellows, also with license plates or stamped envelopes. Karen does key holders, handbag holders and other odds and ends. Her creations can be found at Cream in Saifi, The Union in Gemmayzeh and Raspberry Diva in Jounieh.

Creations by ASPF's Bamboo Project
I was impressed by the Association de Secours aux Prisonniers et leurs Familles (ASPF), an organization that aids prisoners and their families. The association helps defend prisoners who have been unjustly condemned; gives legal, financial, medical and food support to those in need. They also lend a hand with the rehabilitation of prisoners into society on their release. ASPF sponsors the Bamboo Project -- creations of hats and bags in raffia and straw by the Baabda Prison for Women. All proceeds from sales go to the inmates.

Maytham Kassir at the Shabab Assafir booth
The night before the festival opening I was invited by Maytham Kassir on Twitter to pass by the Shabab Assafir booth. He and his journalist colleagues were giving out and promoting the junior weekly tabloid of the Beirut newspaper.

Abu Brahim in traditional attire
Georgina does delicious falafel
I recognized Abu Brahim, in his Druze traditional attire, from my post about Souk el Tayeb, Beirut’s farmers market. Georgina was there too and offered me a freshly made falafel.

I got apples at Irshad, who protect the environment by working with farmers across Lebanon to produce Lebanese fruits by means of the best internationally used practices through Integrated Crop Management (ICM).

Kenza's different seating area
Kenza had seating with cushions on mats with burning incense to enjoy their natural diet cakes and breads. Their products are suitable for diabetes, pregnancy and healthy dieting as well as for children aged one year and above.

Dr. Jamil Kassem manning his book stall
Celebrating the festival well into the night
It is unfair not to mention every single stall, artisan, farmer, cook, painter, musician and the hundreds of people who displayed and helped organize the Hamra Streets Festival. I would have loved to give credit to each one for their creativity and courage to launch into these ventures.

Maybe these pictures will give you an idea of what a great show Hamra put on. I love Hamra!

Related posts:   Beirut’s Souk el Tayeb, 16 November 2010

                        Walking in Hamra, 12 November 2010

                        Back on the streets of Beirut, 24 June 2011

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

My Beirut bowling baptism


Bowling... it's great fun!
There’s always a first for everything… I finally went bowling in Beirut last week. The finding: It’s great fun!

The closest I got to bowling until then were bowling shirts. They were fashionable at one time -- in the late seventies if I remember correctly. I was fond of one in particular. It was black with red and white pins on a left side pocket. I have several snapshots of me sporting it, but they are in Dubai.

Gustav's Noor and Khaled
As it often does, the evening started at Gustav -- the pâtisserie haven for dessert aficionados and our favorite hangout on Hamra Street. Gustav (@LeGustav on Twitter) is the brainchild of Emirati entrepreneur Khaled Bou Falasa and his Chef Patissier Noor Ramlawi. It has become the virtual world’s nerve center. It’s where you invariably come face-to-face with “friends” you only got to know through Twitter or Facebook.

Woody waits for his ball, strikes and...
... gets a high-five from Liliane
Joining us from Canada, and meeting him for the first time, was Woody Ghsoubi (@vipwoody), who studies in Montreal and is now holidaying in Lebanon. It’s always uplifting to chance on a Twitter friend. Also going bowling were Liliane (@FunkyOzzi), Hussam (@sam_lb), Maggie (@Abaretruth), Yasmine (@yasminehajjar), Jennifer (@Jenhaddad), Youssef (@ychaker), Samir, Khaled (@Arabear) and Noor (@ChefNoor).

We just had to walk across the street to the Crowne Plaza Hotel where the 10-lane Score bowling alley and amusement center is sited.

Maggie joins the fray
Finger magic from Liliane
Jennifer chooses her ball
The good time a bunch of “would be” adults can have at one of the oldest and most popular games in the world is remarkable. I didn’t even know bowling is a sport dating back to 3200 BC!

In the 1930s, British anthropologist Sir Flinders Petrie discovered a collection of objects in a child's grave in Egypt that appeared to be used for a primitive form of bowling. In Germany, historian William Pehle found evidence of bowling around 300 AD. In 1366 England, King Edward III banned bowling because the game was taking archery practice away from his troops but Henry VIII brought it back.

English, Dutch and German settlers must have imported bowling to America, where it started on lawns. There’s still a plot in New York called Bowling Green in what is now the financial district.

The electronic scoring board
The equipment used for bowling has evolved from the hardwood balls and pin boys responsible for setting up the pins. New technologies have improved the bowling ball, introduced electronic scoring and monitors that show the path and speed of your ball, and several other novelties. 

Cheerfully, bowling is played by people of all ages, which was the case while we were there. There were children challenging their parents, teenagers and older groups as well. The amusement center was packed.
We were among the 95 million people across 90 countries that bowl every day. Debate whether ten-pin bowling should be introduced at the Olympics Games is continuing.

Sam, Youssef, Jennifer and Maggie play a game of air hockey
I was apprehensive at first and sat out the first game. But I couldn’t resist engaging in the second -- with little success I must confess. But that was part of the fun. I will not be changing careers or going to the World Series of Bowling any time soon with a score of 33!

The rules seem easy and the automatic scoring is a blessing. 

Yasmine and Liliane take the Harleys for a spin
The Hamra bowling center has 10 alleys and a cafeteria. LL 10,000 ($6.63) pay for a "game," bowling shoe hire and a new pair of socks. Each game is divided into 10 "frames." A "strike" is scored when a player knocks down all pins on the first roll in the frame.

It all looks straightforward when watching. But when I strode up to roll my first ball, it wasn’t that easy. However much I tried to aim straight, the ball kept swerving right. In one of my tries I hit my calf instead of the alley!

The evening didn’t end there. On our way out, we couldn’t resist the other games at the amusement arcade, including the air hockey and Harley-Davidson rides.


You can join our bowling night in pictures.

Voilà, et à la prochaine!
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Thursday, June 16, 2011

Carved figures come to life in Beirut


Four Xavier Corbero sculptures
Whenever I’m in Beirut, I go visit the sculptures peppering the entrance to the Souks. It’s always interesting to hear people’s comments as most think they are a waste of money and “just stones.” They either love them or hate them, a bit like Marmite.

I love these huge figures. They make you stop, think, discuss… And the idea of public works of art -- accessible, in the open for all to see and appreciate (or disparage) – is brilliant.

Corbero figures strolling about
They are 15 exceptional sculptures by Catalan painter, sculptor and architect Xavier Corbero that change character depending on the light and angle you look at them. Some seem to be just strolling about, others talking or embracing. But you can see them yourselves in these snapshots.

Dotted around Downtown Beirut in a sort of open museum, Corbero’s sculptures are made of basalt extracted from a particular quarry in the suburbs of Barcelona. Inspired by nature, it took him three years to complete them.

Downtown Beirut was planned and redeveloped by Solidere, founded in 1994 by the late Prime Minister Rafik Hariri, at the end of the Lebanon civil war. Solidere is the acronym in French for Lebanese Company for the Development and Reconstruction of Beirut.

 Window shopping maybe?
Information about the sculptures is sparse and about their creator mostly in Spanish, so it was interesting research.

I don’t know much about art, but I have always been drawn to public displays and grandiose patterns like those by Henry Moore and Pablo Picasso. Maybe that’s why I’m attracted to Corbero’s figures.

Corbero figures are carved in basalt
Corbero is Spain’s finest living sculptor. He was influenced in his early years by Spanish sculptor and painter Pablo Gargallo and Moore, the British sculptor and voice of British modernism.

From my first meeting with Corbero’s carved figures, I was hit by the massive bulk of the basalt, one of the most common fine-grained volcanic rock types in the world. The ocean floor is almost entirely made up of basalt, and maybe that’s what gives the stone a slippery feeling.

Perhaps it’s the way the figures are positioned, in relation to the space and to one another that is as important as their bulk and mass… Who knows in art? 

The sculptor settled in Spain’s remote Esplugues region in the late 1950s and since then has built a dream environment and refuge where artists live and work. Painters and sculptors are offered a free room and studio to explore their creativity at the Fundacion Xavier Corbero.

Salvador Dali was Corbero’s first patron although he didn’t know it -- a tale I found repeated often while looking up the artist about their relationship. Corbero says: “I didn't know he was my patron until many years later. Somebody had called on the phone and said ‘Hello, this is Dali.’ I thought it was a friend pulling my leg, so I said, ‘Yes, and I am the bishop,’ and hung up."

Xavier Corbero
Many years later, during an exhibition in New York, Dali visited the gallery every day. Corbero asked him why, and the great painter replied: "Because I find your work very interesting. The only problem is that you aren’t very polite given that I bought everything at your exhibition.”

Corbero’s roots are in Spain’s Catalan region, specifically Barcelona, a city famous for its public displays of art. Ahead of the 1992 Barcelona Summer Olympics, he organized for artists to create public art projects in the city and many of his own massive works line major boulevards. He also created the 1998 Olympic medals and convinced the Olympic committee to use real gold in them for the first time in the history of the Games.

The old and the new in Downtown Beirut
After saluting my 15 friends, I continued my tour of Downtown Beirut, admiring the blend of old and new in the Souks’ restored streets and alleys as well as in the churches and mosques, often sitting side-by-side.

And I headed towards the new and upcoming district at the Port of Beirut, off the waterfront, which is developing into a new shopping area. There too, the mix of old houses and buildings contrasts with the designer boutiques.

So far there are three that launched in December – Maison Rabih Kayrouz, which I didn’t dare enter but whose windows were decked out with beautiful green, red, yellow and blue dresses and evening gowns; the Karen Chekerdjian Store for creative houseware; and a new branch of the famous and iconic IF Boutique.

Saydet al-Nourieh Church and Al-Amin Mosque
But there is that much you can walk and it was time to retrace my steps, past the Al-Amin Mosque and the picturesque Saydet al-Nourieh Church (Our Lady of Light), and take a shared cab, or servees, back home to Hamra.

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Good Friday Mass in Beirut


Arriving at Saint Mary's for Good Friday Mass
In good traditional manner, it rained on Good Friday in Beirut. But this only added to the solemnity of the day that is celebrated here with devotion, passion and great community spirit.

I have already mentioned that Holy Week and Easter is my favorite season of the year (Off to Beirut in time for Easter, 16 April 2011). I haven’t been in Beirut during Passion Week for more than 20 years. I wanted to participate in the traditions that my mom Vicky and I used to enjoy so much.

So it was off to Good Friday Mass at Mom’s parish church, St. Mary’s Orthodox Church of Dormition in Makhoul Street off Hamra. Arriving in time for the 6 p.m. start, the church was already completely packed. Accompanied by my cousin Lillian, we were lucky to eventually get a seat, the mass lasting more than two hours.

The packed church
Jesus' symbolic coffin
St. Mary’s, better known as Saydeh, is the parish church of the Greek Orthodox community in Ras Beirut and currently counts around 400 families. It is one of the 11 parishes that constitute the Greek Orthodox Archdiocese of Beirut. The present archbishop, His Eminence Metropolitan Elias Audi, was elected by the Holy Synod, to the See of Beirut in 1980. The See of Beirut covers the Lebanese capital area and the town of Souk el-Gharb, the Metropolitan's summer resort.

The Greek Orthodox community is the second largest Christian community in Lebanon and the Greek Orthodox Church of Beirut traces its history back to the year 66 AD when Quartos, one of the 70 disciples, founded the Church of Beirut. 
 
The priest spraying the congregation with blessed rose water
There was no Orthodox church in Ras Beirut before the year 1860. Land to build a church with a cemetery and a school for parish children was donated by the Rbeiz and Bekha’azi families, the largest Orthodox families in Ras Beirut. And it is in fact there that many friends and family members are buried.

Kissing the symbolic shroud at the end of the Good Friday Mass
The Good Friday mass was an occasion for the community to gather and meet. Despite the many tears in the congregation that the mass stirred up, there was also a festive atmosphere. People were going in and out to give their places to others. There were families, children, and a lot of Aunties that reminded me of Mom.

My Good Friday flowers
The ceremony was long, more than two hours, but it was full of symbolism and tradition as you can see from the pictures. And you leave with a feeling of peace and thanksgiving… and blessed flowers that were distributed at the Church gates. I now have these next to my computer.
 
Fairouz sings Good Friday hymns on TV
I was also pleased to catch the Good Friday Mass hymns on TV by Lebanon’s Grande Dame, Fairouz.

Happy Easter!